Pondering getting a new mattress: Any advice?

I love my DH very much.  But I think I would love him even more if we had a king-sized bed.

Why a king?  I used to think king-sized beds were crazy and extravagant and unnecessary.  As DH has gotten older, he’s started to snore a bit.  He’s got some kind of nasal thing going on (the dentist has talked to him about it) in which if he gets overweight he has trouble doing nose breathing and to fix it he’d either need surgery, a CPAP, or to lose weight.  So far he’s been trying the lose weight option, but it never sticks long-term.  Also in the winter I love cuddling close to him through the night, but in the summer I’d rather be as far away as possible.  He has trouble sleeping without me, but I sleep way better when he’s gone.  That year in paradise where we had a king-sized bed I slept really well.  We also sleep well in hotels when we get a genuine king bed.

Right now our house has 3 queen sized beds of various ages and comfort levels and one twin bed.  The bed we’re currently sleeping on is 18 years old (and is a pretty high quality standard mattress), but spent quite a bit of the time in the interim as an extra bed in an empty room.  DC1 sleeps on an (extremely expensive organic) Omi Midori twin; it is about 10 years old.  DC2 sleeps on an (extremely expensive organic) Omi queen that used to be ours, though I forget what kind.  It is ~8 years old, and DC2 (age 5) has been using it by hirself for something like 3 or 4  years.  We were very worried about chemical off-gassing when they were little.  The guest bed was a $300 emergency buy– the cheapest full bed option for right after we’d bought the house, had no money, and DH’s parents were visiting.  It is not… uncomfortable… but it’s also not terribly comfortable either and it’s smaller than our other queens.

We have to flip the bed monthly or I wake up with my back hurting.  And sometimes flipping is not enough.  Often it is enough though.

There are two directions that I see we could go right now.

  1.  We could buy another OMI mattress for $4-8K.  These guys are supposed to last decades, but one of the reasons we gave ours to DC2 was that it wasn’t as comfy after 5 years, even with regular flipping.  I’m fairly sure we could talk them into giving us a platform bed for free (that’s one of their rotating specials).
  2. We could instead spend $700 on a Tuft and Needle online, and then buy a platform bed frame from Walmart or someplace similar for <$200.

Or, of course, we could continue to do nothing.


#2 says:  King-size is 100% worth it.  Just buy a Casper like everyone else, and then you’re done.  You need 2 twin box springs, or a platform.  Casper even sells a platform.

They did not pay me to say this, but you can always paypal to grumpyrumblings at gmail dot com.

Take one-quarter (or less!) of what you would spend on another mattress and buy a decent CPAP machine.  The difference in life quality (not to mention silence for your bedmate) once you get that sucker properly adjusted is mind-blowing.  Once you get used to it, you will wonder how anyone functioned without it.

What do you guys think?  What are your suggestions for mattress buying?  How did you buy your last bed?  Any suggestions for brands that are still comfortable after 10, 15 years?


Ask the Grumpies: Credit Card Debt Question

Finally Facing It asks:

One of my projects for this summer is to finally face squarely our debt situation and deal with it. I’m totally of the stick-my-head-in-the-sand camp when it comes to money, and so is my partner, which is a very bad combination.

A few facts: We owe (big breath!) about $46,000 in credit card debt, some for good reasons and some not. We are a one-income family, plus my partner gets Social Security disability for a variety of health reasons. We own a house with a mortgage. My income is good, and our house is modest, but we live in a very expensive city. We don’t have extravagant tastes or habits, so we’re not adding to our credit card debt, but we haven’t been able to pay it down, and this has been going on for years now. Whenever I seem to be making progress, something like an expensive car repair puts me back to square one. I am contributing to retirement through my job and buying IRAs for my partner, so I have been “paying myself first” in terms of retirement planning.

So clearly my previous approach of “don’t have a plan, just send money to the credit cards whenever we have some extra in the account” has done bupkis, and I carry with me all the time the stress of this debt and the interest we’re paying. Time to do something!

What I’d really like to do is consolidate that debt so that we have one fixed payment per month, and I know what that payment will be, and I know that I’m making progress on paying it off (that is, I have a plan for how much above the minimum I should aim for). I’ve tried moving debt to new credit cards with 0% rate for so many months, but I’m still not making progress.

It seems to me that my options are as follows:

•Refinance our mortgage and take out enough cash to pay off the debt.
•Take out a home loan or a personal loan from the bank.
•Take out a loan from something like Lending Club or Prosper (but I don’t really know anything about these).  [ed.  Do not do this]
•Take out a loan from a company that specializes in credit card consolidation (but again I don’t know anything about these). [ed.  Definitely do not do this]

Advice on any of these options, or do you have another option to recommend? I absolutely appreciate any and all advice you have to give! (And I did read through your archives on debt and have requested from the library a couple of the books you recommend. I know that one of the things I need to deal with is my emotions and mostly fear around money.)

If I can get all of our consumer debt into one place with a fixed payment and a lower interest rate, I know that the next steps are to make a budget and stick with it. I should have done all of this years ago, I know; I’ve just been so overwhelmed by the debt that I couldn’t face any of it. But I’m trying to be brave now.

Standard disclaimer:  We are not professional anything other than academics.  Discuss with a true professional and/or do your own research before making any life-altering decisions.

I then asked for some numbers.  Zie sent me a very pretty spreadsheet:

Credit card/debtor Interest rate Debt size Totals Current min. payments
Visa1 16.10% 8,134 193
Visa2 16.99% 18,602 420
Visa3 0%* 17,610 178
Total debt 44,346 $791/month

*0% until 2/1/19, 16.40% after that

Credit score = 749 with FICO

Mortgage Interest rate current:  4.375%
Potential refinance rate ??.  Refinance rates look higher than that right now

Zie sent me a picture of personal bank loans from hir local bank– the lowest rate was 8.85% APY for a 3 year loan, which seems like a non-starter given that HELOC loans look to be under 5% for a 10 year loan.

FFI says:

The generic rate I’m seeing online is 4.89% for a 10-year loan for $50,000. I put those numbers into a loan payment calculator and came up with a $528/month payment, which is already less than we’re paying in minimum payments to our credit cards, so I could pay extra each month.

Ok, there’s a lot going on here!  And if we were MMM, we would also ask for a full accounting of income and every single budget item.  And I am going to recommend that FFI sit down and figure all of that out as well, but I also don’t want to let the perfect be the enemy of the good.  Focusing on one part of finances is better than getting overwhelmed and doing nothing, and debt repayment is a great first place to start.

Before I get into anything else, Step 1 is always the same.  Figure out what all of your recurring providers are (internet, insurance, cell phone, etc.) and give them a call tomorrow and ask if they have any discounts available.  FFI has a great credit score and providers are often willing to give good customers something for just asking.  Do this also with the two Visas in the 16% range (especially Visa2– you should not be using that card unless they substantially lower their APY for you).  See if you can get them to drop their rates while you’re figuring things out.  Every penny you’re not giving them in interest can be applied to principal.  It may seem like $50 here or there isn’t a ton, but it’s actually $50 PLUS all the interest you’re not paying on that $50 in the future.  It adds up.

With that out of the way:

With money, as you note, there are always two systems.  There’s the rational money system — what you should do if you’re homo economicus rationalus, and there’s the emotional system.  The emotional aspect of money is different for everyone even if the numbers just based on money are the same.  So definitely read the excellent introduction to Suze Orman’s otherwise terrible book about how to deal with the emotional aspects debt.  She gets emotions.  I don’t know how to help you sort through your emotions with money… for me, whenever I feel helpless and sick to my stomach I go into overdrive to fix things (this is why I’ve been doing so much political activism lately), but it is far more normal to try to ignore things when they get overwhelming (this is true!  there’s research!).  So it’s great that you’ve taken the first step and actually looked at things and realized that you can handle this.  The only question is going to be how quickly you can get that $791/month back in your pocket, and that’s going to take some sacrifice and some self-knowledge.

If you had no emotions, you would consolidate all of your debt into a HELOC sometime before February.  You would make those phone calls today and put every penny saved directly to debt.  You would go through and see what in your budget could be cut for the duration and you would send that money directly to your debt.  You might go through your house and see if there’s anything you could sell, and you might pick up a little bit of freelance work.  You might even save mental resources by doing a temporary spending ban of one kind or another (why does this save mental resources?  Because the answer is always, “no.”).  You would put on hold the IRA contributions and all job-based retirement contributions except for what is needed for an employer match (because a 5% sure investment in debt repayment is better than a ~5-7% risky investment in the stock market).

But we are human and we have emotions.  So you’re going to need to think about what motivates you, what demotivates you, and what causes the most and least amount of pain.

Consolidate or not?

First off, if you think there’s any chance that you’re going to put that money in a HELOC and end up with another 46K in CC debt at 16% interest a few years from now, do not do the HELOC.  That may seem crazy, but that’s what happens to either a slight majority or a substantial minority of people (I can’t remember which) who consolidate high interest credit card debt. Since you haven’t been adding to your debt, you’re probably not in that population (though we can think of former bloggers who look at their credit limits as the answer to the question of how much they should spend). If you believe you are likely to just get into more debt, then cut up or literally freeze (in a block of ice) your credit cards now.  Similarly, a person in that situation could still consolidate to a HELOC, but as soon as the debt is transferred, should immediately cancel all but one or two of hir CC and call the remaining CC companies to limit their credit to just what could conceivably be needed for emergencies.  Again, it doesn’t sound like that’s you, but it is something to keep in mind.

Should you consolidate?  That question also has mechanical and emotional parts.  Mechanically, the answer is of course you should.  Emotionally, people seem to have an easier time killing off debt when it’s a several debts rather than one big debt.  That’s true if they use Dave Ramsey’s snowball method of killing the smallest debt first or the mathematically “highest interest rate first” strategy.  The motivational benefit isn’t unlimited though– large differences in interest rates will swamp the motivational benefit from cutting up the debts.  And I think 11% is a pretty large difference in interest rates– would being able to debt snowball or highest interest rate first make a difference of ~5K/year (46Kx0.11)?  Probably not.  One thing I would suggest is keeping your mortgage separate from the HELOC and to kill off that HELOC rather than putting them together and adding years to your mortgage.  Alternatively, you could find some more 0% interest transfers and kill off those debts one at a time, but I get the sense you’re tired of doing that, and it’s not like 0% interest transfers are free or last very long.  Cutting consumption and paying interest now will have big dividends in the future if you don’t just push it off to your future self.

Note that you may not be able to get a HELOC approved if it pushes you under 20% equity, or if it is approved the interest rates may be higher.  So keep that in mind when deciding how much to consolidate.

Ok, so so far it looks like we’re recommending consolidating your debt to a HELOC, assuming you can get one under 5%.  (You will probably still want to do this if it’s under say, 8%, but with more fire under you to pay it off ASAP.  More than that and you’re going to have to look harder at transaction costs and how much it would cost to do more 0% balance transfers etc.)  If you find you can’t get approved for a HELOC, or it takes time to get a HELOC, don’t give up hope.  You can still get that debt down.

Don’t wait for the consolidation to go through to start finding more money to throw at the debt.

As you’re reading the various books on how to pay debt, you’ll want to be thinking about your money as a whole. I can tell you, not having to deal with a 16% interest rate drag is really freeing– all that money going to debt servicing can be used for goods, services, savings, etc. later and without any guilt. But to get there, you may need to make more temporary sacrifices than feels comfortable. You will want to look deeper into your budget and see if there are big or small changes that can get you closer to debt freedom. (If refinancing/HELOC were closer to 2 or 3 percent, I wouldn’t be pushing this, but 5% is still a drag on finances and it would be nice to just not have that.) Don’t just think in terms of monthly payments, but also in terms of how much you’re losing each month from debt (unless you find that really demotivating) and how much you save by paying it off.

An update from FFI:

We are looking into budgeting apps tomorrow so that we can figure out what we spend each month. One of the things that keeps me from paying more than the minimum is that I tend to keep hefty cash reserves because I never know what else we’re going to need to pay out during the month, which is one reason that I’m always in a panic. So we’re going to lay out all of our fixed and variable expenses. And I’m totally going to adopt your blogged strategy of an “allowance” for each of us each month. And I may, at least temporarily, adopt an envelopes-of-cash system for things like groceries and our allowances for each month.

Great!  Get that monthly spending predictable.  There are a lot of ways to do this.  I’m lazy so I use MINT, but MINT sometimes screws up, so it works better as a back-up.  While you’re just starting and while you’re in debt repayment mode, you will probably want to write down everything as you spend it (this will also cause to you to think twice about spending on luxuries, much like writing down what you eat increases your broccoli consumption while decreasing your donut consumption) or do a cash-only system like the one you are suggesting.  If you do cash-only without a full month’s audit of what you spent the previous month, you will probably end up a bit short because you forgot some expenses– don’t let this discourage you.  Think of the first couple months as practice.  You’ll also probably forget a couple annual expenses that will come as surprises.  Don’t beat yourself up too much when that happens, but make a note for your budgeting for next year.  Here’s our omnibus budgeting post.

Once you know what you’re spending on, you’ll better be able to look at what you’ve been spending on and get your future spending to align with your values.  You may see some things that are obvious– maybe you didn’t realize you were spending so much on lattes, to use the stereotypical David Bach example.  It probably won’t be lattes, but just getting the numbers may be enlightening.  If you don’t find easy places to cut, think in terms of what will hurt less.  Or let your future self figure it out on the fly with the allowance or cash-envelope.

It sounds like just throwing extra money at the debt hasn’t been working, and you’re right that making debt repayment a regular extra bill (and smoothing out your spending) is probably what will work for you.  While you’re feeling energetic about fixing your finances this summer, you will probably want to also throw extra money here and there at the debt– the earlier you pay off principal, the less you will be paying in interest in the long term.  Some people get additional motivation from doing things like sticker charts (but without the stickers), or other ways to gamify the shrinking of the debt by celebrating each additional payoff.

Where do you get that extra money?

You mentioned overlarge cash reserves.  Rationally, when you have debt at 16%, you should not have an emergency fund to cover anything you can put on a credit card.  That money should go to pay the debt and new debt should be incurred in the event of an emergency.  Emotionally, however, having an emergency fund can keep people from opening the credit card floodgates.  One of the things you will want to examine is the size of your emergency fund.  When you’re in debt-repayment mode, you probably want to keep this somewhat lower.  Enough to say, handle a two week late paycheck or late travel reimbursement, or whatever is something you would not be wanting to grab your credit card to pay.  After you’ve figured out your standard expenses and a way not to go over except in cases of true emergencies, you may want to re-direct some of these cash reserves to debt repayment.  (Refill the cash reserves after you dip below your specified amount.)   If you consolidate to a HELOC, that may be the point at which you no longer want to take the CC out for emergencies, in which case keep those cash reserves higher.  Do what is best for your psyche even if it isn’t mathematically optimal.

Sidenote:  After the debt is gone, you will want more cash reserves because you won’t want to put emergencies on credit card anymore.  You’ll want this to be your last revolving CC debt if possible.  While you’re paying debt off, you’re trading off savings account interest for higher debt interest.  When debt is done, you’re trading off savings account interest for spending or uncertain investment returns, so keeping cash reserves makes more rational sense than it does when the alternative is paying off debt.

Retirement is another potential place to get money, but for your situation we do not recommend it.  We agree with you that it’s better for you to keep investing in retirement for the duration.  Mathematically it doesn’t make sense to keep investing for retirement (above the match) while carrying high interest debt.  But in reality, getting out of the habit of saving for retirement and then getting back into saving for retirement sometimes means that you don’t get back into saving for retirement right away.  If you were unable to reduce the debt from 16% to 5%, I might recommend you put all retirement saving other than what it takes to get an employer match on hold.  If you were at 25% or more interest rates, I would definitely recommend it.  Conversely, if your debt were all below 5% then I would say to definitely keep investing in retirement.  With the information you’ve given me, I’d say keep doing what you’re doing with retirement unless you can’t get that HELOC.

If your math suggests you’re going to be paying off for the long-haul, another trick is to put any and all raise or bonus money directly towards debt.  You’re unlikely to miss it (at least until grocery prices start going up…).

When you’re in debt repayment mode, there are also things you can do temporarily that we mentioned tongue-in-cheek earlier.  These are gimmicks that nevertheless help people (especially if you blog about it as a challenge!)  These all come under the header of “spend less” or “make more.”  Temporary no-spending or “compact” (where you buy only used) challenges can be fun and enlightening, especially when they’re voluntary.  No-spending days are pretty useless, but no-spending (or compact) months (or quarters or semesters or years) can help you figure out what you really value, what was just a habit (now broken) and how you can get creative about reducing consumption.  If you’re at all LA, you can think of it as a spending cleanse.  I also love reading about them on people’s blogs (when they’re actual no spending challenges and not ones with so many exceptions that they end up buying more luxuries than we do– those frustrate me).   Selling used designer clothing on Poshmark is “in” on a lot of the blogs we’re reading about now, and craigslist and ebay sales are also popular.  Even just a garage sale could generate a couple hundred dollars to throw at debt.  (I wouldn’t do this kind of thing regularly, but if you’re jump-starting a massive debt-repayment, why not?)  If you have marketable skills, you can try picking up some freelancing or contract work in those areas and dedicate that money towards debt repayment (minus estimated taxes).  Dave Ramsey recommends any kind of side hustle, like delivering pizzas or waitressing, but we’re not going to suggest going that direction unless it’s something you enjoy or that helps your main career (if you had bad credit and couldn’t get those interest rates down, we’d be pushing side hustles harder, but you’re going to be ok, you just want to get rid of that almost $800 drain on your finances each month).

Final words of encouragement!

This is definitely doable!  Every dollar you use to pay off the debt principal is money is freeing up money you would have wasted on interest.  The sooner you pay it off, the sooner you will have more money to spend (or save) completely guilt-free.  When my DH came into our marriage with unsubsidized high interest student-loan debt, I would look at how much money we would be losing on debt servicing (unsubsidized loans keep growing in graduate school even if you don’t pay them off!) and it motivated me to get rid of it.  I wanted that money back!  You too can get that money back!  It may take some temporary sacrifice, but it will be so nice when that drain is gone.  And the great thing about debt is that the more you pay, the easier it is to pay the rest because you’re no longer servicing the entire amount of the debt, only a fraction.  The more you pay off, the less interest you pay, the more money you have to pay off more debt.  It’s completely unlike food diets.  You can do this!

Do you have words of advice or encouragement for FFI?  Do you love a good debt repayment story?

Sometimes the dealer isn’t the best place for repairs: How I finally got a new starter for my car

My 2005 Hyundai Accent has been having trouble starting for a while now.  Back when I had to get the last big set of repairs, the dealer quoted a new starter at $800, and we forwent that.

So, DH left for a multiple day business trip.  While running late to get DC1 to hir violin lesson because it took longer than expected to get DC2 out of daycamp and into the car, I tried to start the car.  And I tried again.  And again.  Usually at the third again the engine turns over and all is well.  This time it wasn’t.  After several more false starts, a couple in a tow truck came by and offered to jump it for me, though I didn’t think that was the problem.  Then they grabbed a guy from a repair shop (he noted the shop was already closed for the day, but he was being helpful anyway).  That guy said that it was probably the starter (I agreed, since I’ve known it’s been a problem) and if I waited until the sun went down and the car cooled down I could probably get it to start again.  He said that replacing a starter on my kind of car usually runs around $400.  The tow people offered to tow me for free over to his shop, so I let them.   The kids then had cupcakes for dinner in the airconditioned cupcake place on the other side of the daycamp while we waited for an uber.  (Our town doesn’t usually have uber/lyft drivers in the summer when the university is out and cab drivers you usually have to book at least 24 hours in advance, but I got lucky.)

When DH got back from his trip, we went to pick up my car.  Total cost:  $369.  Waaaay less than what the dealer was going to charge.  And no nasty comments about how old my car was.  Since this repair shop was technically in the lower SES town next to ours, most of the cars on the lot were older than mine.  My car starts beautifully on the first try now no matter how hot the engine is.  It’s pretty amazing.

While DH was out and my car was in the shop, I did get to spend quite a bit of time driving his Clarity.  It is a really nice car.  Extremely smooth drive, easy acceleration, nice bells and whistles (I could get used to not having to even press a button to open the car door).  I see why he likes it so much.  But I’m not yet ready to trade in my Accent for a Prius Prime, so there we are.

And hopefully we have a new mechanic!  The reason we’d been taking my car to the dealer in the first place was because our previous mechanic screwed up an oil change (and then recently screwed one up again when DH decided to give them another chance).

Where do you take your car for repairs (if you have a car)?  How did you choose the mechanic?

Gradations of socioeconomic status

While we were talking to DH’s relative about summercamp and college for his fourth kid he mentioned that he had 7 kids in addition to his 4 and the one grandkid living at home over at his house that day.  He said he usually did most days these days.  The kids make friends with his kids and come over and then you find out that they don’t have any place to go to for Thanksgiving because their parents have abandoned or neglected (and maybe abused) them so you invite them over and suddenly you care for them and can’t kick them out because they have nowhere else to go.

DH’s family runs a gamut of socioeconomic status.  We’re wealthy.  His parents are well-off now, though they weren’t always.  His brother’s family is comfortably middle class, his sister’s is lower to middle middle class.  This relative is on the edge of lower middle class, depending on your definition.  They have food and shelter, but they have unpleasant (medical, car, mortgage, etc.) debt levels at high interest rates and frequently they’re overdrawn and they’ve had cars repossessed and there are often worries about their ability to keep the house, for which they owe more than it is worth.  They have terrible credit and often cannot borrow.  Their life is filled with uncertainty and stress about money.  Stress and bouts with poverty have affected their health as well.  They have aged much faster than we have.

But they’re doing better than DH’s relative’s wife’s family.  There’s no drug problems.  There have only been small problems with the law.  They have a house.

And they’re doing better than these other children from DH’s hometown.  The children are loved and cared for and not at all neglected or abused at home.  And he’s sharing some of that privilege with other kids.

I wish that range of how well people doing started closer to where DH’s relative is (only with less stress and uncertainty) and didn’t have so many people doing so much worse.

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Sad update on Little Kitty, and no kitchen renovation this summer

Little kitty has had repeat ear infections for a few months now.  After the last round of treatment, she suddenly started losing her balance when walking.  We left her at the vet and the vet found a tumor in her ear canal.  A biopsy showed (a week later) that it was malignant.  The surgical specialist we were referred to did a bunch more tests (~$1.6K worth) including a CT-scan and determined that the tumor was very large and in a bad position in her ear (the bottom of the ear canal L) and had caused additional bone growth.  That means it was inoperable.  The tumor itself was slow-growing but had started to affect the nerves on her left side.  We were given the choice between radiation treatments which could not shrink the tumor or stop it, but just slow the growth.  She would still have all her dizziness.  And there’s no research with numbers telling us how much time the radiation would buy us or how effective it is without surgery (there’s a lot of research on radiation in conjunction with surgery, but not radiation by itself).  The other choice was hospice at home.  And they would give us good drugs to ease her pain.  With Little Kitty being 15 years old and having difficulty walking, we opted for hospice.

They did quote some prices for the radiation therapy, but I forget what they were (we’d pretty much decided before the vet brought up prices and were grieving pretty hard when she mentioned them).  I think maybe a couple thousand for the 5x treatment and ~6K for the 20x treatment, but don’t quote me.  But even if it were free we would have made the same choice.  If the radiation could have shrunk the tumor and brought her straight walking back, we would have paid it.  But we wouldn’t have paid an infinite amount– DH and I discussed earlier what our limits were… more than 30K we wouldn’t pay, under 10K we definitely would and would only consider what was best for Little Kitty.  In between 10 and 30 we’d have to think about it.  I feel guilty about this– if it were my children I would mortgage the house and go into debt if we needed to (heaven forbid), but our beloved 15 year old Little Kitty… no.  She is more important than a kitchen renovation (or a new car), but there are limits.

In any case, I don’t want kitchen repair people around the house with Little Kitty doing hospice.  She deserves peace and quiet and treats and chicken and time curled up on the sunny patio.  And headbonks and love.  New counters can wait.  Not all decisions are determined by money.

We love her so much.

Leaving breadwinner status

I wanted to have a cheerful money post because the stuff in the drafts right now is a lot of dark stuff about income inequality, and Little Kitty is not doing well and may need expensive medical treatment so talking about renovating the kitchen is not happening right now.  So I am going to share some news from #2!

After a year of funemployment, her DH has decided to go back to work and has a job offer that he’s negotiating with a firm that he really likes.  It’s a hefty paycut from what he was making at the job he left, and he’ll probably keep drawing down money from previous dot com boom stock options to keep his current standard of living, but even so, he’s got a nice salary.  They’re back to upper-middle-class status.

Yay money!!!

Also yay being able to get a tech job after 40.  There’s hope for us…

Reminder: Sometimes you need to double-check reimbursements

Our DDA (dependent daycare account) provider this year has been super obnoxious.  After years of correct and mostly easy (they would occasionally lose a fax, but were otherwise ok) handling of reimbursements, this year has been a huge amount of pain.  Last semester any time that we had to pay for a day off from school, the claim would be denied because we’d already paid for after school care for the semester.  This semester I did the day/week off reimbursements first and I hit a bunch of flags trying to submit my claim for after school care for the semester.

While I was poking around trying to figure out how much to charge for the semester’s after school care given that we’d paid for the full year, I noticed that the number we got reimbursed was not equivalent to half of the full year charge.  I thought that was odd and looked at our additional documentation.  I’d requested half the amount, but it hadn’t been reimbursed fully because my DDA hadn’t been debited that much yet.  Usually this isn’t a problem– they reimburse what they can and then reimburse the remainder the next month when my DDA gets the new payment.  This time they did not do that.  They *said* in the error message that came with the claim that they would do it, but then they never did.

Often you think you’re done with some kind of paperwork, but then for whatever reason it never fully executes.  It’s irritating, and adds to mental load.  But not paying attention can lead to lost money.

I added the difference to this semester’s claim.  That’s easier than calling them up and getting them to fix it that way.  There’s plenty in the DDA to cover it.  I also added a note to the form explaining how each type of care I had requested for reimbursement purposes did not actually conflict.  We’ll see how many errors they throw up this time.

Have you noticed any billing/reimbursement/etc errors recently?  How often do you check?  How do you remember to check?