May Mortgage Update and housing’s effect on college choice

Last month (April):

Balance: $81,065.97
Years left: 6.5
P =$887.38, I = $327.03, Escrow = 621.66

This month (May):

Balance: $79,508.51
Years left: 6.333
P =$893.52, I = $320.89, Escrow = 613.58

One month’s prepayment savings:  $2.66

Our escrow dropped.  Yay.  (Though boo that’s because our property value continues to drop!) Also: Note we’re below 80K!

It turns out that your housing wealth affects your college choice.  A recent paper by Michael Lovenheim and Lockwood Reynolds finds that a 10K increase in housing wealth in the 4 years before a child goes to college increases the likelihood that the child attends a public flagship by 2 percent compared to less expensive public schools.

They found no relationship between housing wealth and where a student was accepted, and they suggest that the relationship comes between housing wealth and where students apply.

This effect of housing wealth on college choice was strongest for lower income families (under 75K, which isn’t actually low income, but it is generally eligible for financial aid at colleges).  For this group, a 10K increase in housing increased the probability of attending a flagship by 8.3 percent and decreased the probability of going to a community college by 3.8 percent.

They also found for lower income families that an increase in housing wealth decreased the amount that students worked outside of school and increased the probability of earning a BA rather than dropping out by 1.8 percent.

They found no effect of housing wealth on families earning more than 125K/year.

Do you think increases in your housing wealth would change your decisions about where you or your children could attend school?

April Mortgage Update: Still wrestling with next year’s money goals

Last month (March):

Balance: $82,617.28
Years left: 6.666666667
P =$881.26, I = $333.14, Escrow = 621.66

This month (April):

Balance: $81,065.97
Years left: 6.5
P =$887.38, I = $327.03, Escrow = 621.66

One month’s prepayment savings:  $2.62

So, as we’ve discussed, this past year we’ve been contributing $500/month to each of the DCs’ 529 funds.   DH and I have been contributing to various forms of IRAs (now all Roths) since we graduated from college.  We’ve been putting money in 403(b)s and 457s as well, and are now pretty much caught up to where we should have been retirement-wise had we not wasted our youth frittering away our time in graduate school.  We’ve also been paying around $600 extra each month on the mortgage (though that varies with our escrow).

All of that is going to stop being automatic next year, other than my mandatory 403(b) contributions (~12% of my salary if you include the match).

We will have some extra money on top of our emergency fund at the end of the summer because (in theory) I’m getting summer salary.  This will be somewhere between 18K and another number (depending on things like emergencies, whether/when DH gets consulting, and so on).

Last semester when DH was thinking about quitting his job, we wrote out a list of priorities of what to do with extra money above and beyond our emergency savings.  #1 was 529 plans.  #2 was DH’s Roth IRA, #3 was my Roth IRA, and so-on.

Now I’m questioning the wisdom of putting money in the 529 plans before funding the IRAs.  On our current path, our children may very well get financial aid, which is something we hadn’t been planning on when we started the 529 saving.  Mint tells me that DC1 has over 40K at this point and DC2 has over 4K.  Do we really need to keep putting 12K/year away in these funds?

Earlier when I talked about this, I suggested filling up DC1′s 529 and not doing much with DC2′s, even though we are planning on paying for four years of college for each.  The reason would be that if DC1 doesn’t use all of hir money, it could easily be transferred to DC2 and we could stop saving for DC2.   People didn’t like that because they didn’t want DC2 to feel like a lesser loved child.  I want to emphasize that we will be paying the full college tuition for both children to the schools of their choices, even if 529 pots are unequal sizes (which they will be, even if we contribute the same amount just because of the vaguaries of the stock market).

Also, I would love to just put money into the Roth IRAs now, but there’s always the chance that DH will make a full salary before the next fiscal year is out and push us over the limit.  Undoing that sounds like a hassle.  Though maybe that’s too unlikely a proposition to keep us from waiting until January.

Anyhow, here’s our dream list of savings:

$12K/year in 529 plans (6K/kid)
DH Roth IRA (5.5K)
My Roth IRA (5.5K)
Mortgage prepayment (up to the amount left)
My additional 403(b) (17.5K/year)
My 457 (17.5K/year)
A SEPA or other self-employment retirement vehicle for DH (up to the amount he earns or 51K whichever is smaller)
Taxable stocks (infinity!)

Keeping in mind that I already must contribute 12%  to my 403(b), that we’ve caught up with where we should be an our ages and income on retirement, that our mortgage is as described above, we want to pay full tuition to college for two children, we’re in the 25% tax bracket (we were also in that bracket before DH left his job), and we have a healthy emergency fund in cash, In what order would you put extra money and why?

What did I learn from the February Challenge: And March’s mortgage update

Last month (February):

Balance: $84,162.48
Years left: 6.833333333
P = $875.17, I = $339.24, Escrow = 621.66

This month (March):

Balance: $82,617.28
Years left: 6.666666667
P =$881.26, I = $333.14, Escrow = 621.66

One month savings:  $2.62

Too bad the stock market didn’t keep those gains– we had been at the point in which the taxable e-trade account was bigger than our remaining mortgage.  Now we’re two months away again.  I shake my tiny fist at Mint for showing me stock market updates more frequently than I want to see them.  It’s a bit unnerving to have one’s net worth fluctuate so wildly.

I spent the month of February with conflicting feelings… On the one hand, I hated having this stupid challenge in the back of my mind and having to be mindful about my spending and DH’s spending.  On the other hand, I had a paper deadline for Feb 28th and kind of didn’t want the month to  end until that got finished(!)

Well, we did it.  Spent $1,227 of non-childcare non-DH’s-allowance out of our take-home pay.  That’s less than $2000.  This makes up for the profligacy of the previous two months and we’re back on track for summer, even if my summer salary gets sequestered (it shouldn’t– it’s from the last fiscal year or something).

Where did it go?  $550 to groceries (that’s a lot for us!).  $303 to utilities (that includes stuff like the insect guy and the internet/phone etc.)  $125 on “shopping” (a catchall for books, diapers and other things).  $86 on gas.  $71 on restaurants (much less than usual).  $34 at the dentist.  $25 on Netflix.  $20 on charity.  $12 on heart medication for the cat.

Now, lest you think we’re an angelic family of four, that doesn’t include bills that we pay once a year (like private school) and it doesn’t include the $1,260 that we spent on childcare and out of DH’s allowance.  This month was full of coffee bean experimentation (DH’s current hobby).

This week, btw, we didn’t spend any money before the month ran out.  (DH ordered parts for the fridge, but that hasn’t been charged yet.  Update:  I spent $26 on gas on the 28th.)  I also got a check for doing a referee report.  And we got a $50 cash back check from the credit card company.

What did we learn?

1.  Not having an emergency is nice.  DH bought an engine/fan set-up for the freezer to replace the one that keeps freezing up (after stalling out).  That should cost around $50 and will hopefully work.  If not, then one of our soon-to-happen emergencies is going to be buying a new fridge.  We’ll probably get something reasonably nice this time around.

2.  We’re kind of tired of the restaurants in town anyway.

3.  We have a lot of food in the freezer.  And some of that food should be thrown out because it didn’t taste good when we froze it either.  (I’m looking at you, disastrous Jambalaya.  I do think we’ll be able to eat the last of the Turkey Turnip Chickpea stuff eventually, but only when someone is craving an ultra-healthy chicken soup.)

4.  Not going into the city saves quite a bit, but also creates a bit of wanderlust.  We may go crazy sometime in March.

5.  Fancy cheeses sometimes go on good sales.  Buy the ones that are on sale when you’re trying to save money instead of not buying any.  Failing that, get one of the inoffensive cheddars.  Don’t come home with no cheese or you will be sad when you need a snack.

6.  After a couple of weeks I stop  the “wanting to buy things just because I can’t”.  I must get acclimated or something.

7.  I still hate having to think about money.  After years of not having to do that, it is nearly impossible to make thinking about it again “a game” or anything other than annoying.

8.  We have a lot of individual bills.  For some reason it doesn’t seem like as many when they’re listed on the cc bill as it does when mint updates with them every few days.

9.  I really want to go into the city and spend a lot of money just because I can.  I won’t though.  Well, no more than usual, anyway.  Well, maybe a little more– I am hitting a milestone birthday.

In the end, I think I’ll keep Mint.  I do like being able to see how much we’ve been spending.  I don’t think I’ll keep such a close eye on the individual items going forward, however.

Do you track your spending?  Do you budget?  How does (or does not) that work out for you?

Ask the grumpies: Estimate someone else’s mortgage payments?

Grad School Cautionary Tale asks:

Husband and I are trying to save for a house. He is a prof and was on leave this year. For various reasons, we were unable to buy a house this year as we had planned. For the next academic year, we need a place while we look for a house to buy.

A colleague in his dept. is on sabbatical next year. We thought we could rent that place, agreed on rent and we would pay utilities. Turns out there is oil heat and utilities are an extra 500. In trying to negotiate with the colleague, I’m trying to figure out their mortgage payment without asking to try and find a reasonable amount to pay. I have, from public records, sale price, year bought and term of loan. Is this something that I can figure out/estimate w/o knowing interest rate/down payment?

We are sort of stuck b/c at first colleague said ze didnt know what ze would do with the house while abroad. It is not a true rental in we would only be moving in our bed, have no storage space, and make no changes. We don’t want to be paying their phone and cable package though, and it seemed like we were doing each other a favor, (we house sit, pay some rent, live constrained for a year so we could save money, ze has someone they trust with their house/stuff, doesn’t have to move much). Now that i type it up, it sounds kinda crazy, but I think my original question of figuring out mortgage payment still stands.

Can you help with that?

Well, I think the best you could probably do would be to plug assumptions into online mortgage calculators and get a range.  Keep in mind that their mortgage payment is also likely to include property taxes and insurance.  I’d start by assuming that they put 20% down on whatever term mortgage you found and vary the interest rates.  You’ll end up with a range.

We have been on both sides of this furnished housing rental deal.  We paid fair rent for a furnished place for a year (we got a discount for asking and being a good risk, but paid extra for our cats, so it balanced out), and another family rented out our furnished house for that year and paid less than the going rate but still more than our mortgage.  (There was a glut of short-term professor rentals that year because of an overseas program– usually the short term rentals in our market go for a premium.)  I don’t think in either case we thought of it as doing a favor or having someone do us a favor.  There are still risks to having a family living in your house, just as there are risks to leaving it alone.

You can also see price ranges on sabbaticalhomes and academichomes.  Craigslist and whatever rental sites are used locally will tell you what unfurnished rentals go for in the area.  You can also contact a local realtor who specializes in rentals.

If you’re in the northeast, it isn’t unusual for a house to be oil heat.  Since the price did come as a shock, personally I’d just try asking for a discount off the rent because of it.  They may be willing to work with you.  People are often willing to come down in price for low-risk renters, regardless of ideas of fairness, especially for a short-term deal.  I’d suggest not even naming a number, but saying the cost of oil heat is a problem for you and letting them name a number– they may be willing to lower the rent by quite a bit.  (And if you don’t like their number, you can suggest a lower one.)  If you haven’t written up a contract yet, then feel free to walk away if you find something you like better.  (And do make sure you write up a contract eventually wherever you end up.)

Good luck!

Any wisdom to add, Grumpy Nation?

February Mortgage Update and a Minty Fresh February Challenge: Is it worthwhile?

Last month (January):

Balance: $85,701.59
Years left: 6.916666667
P = $869.10, I =$345.30, Escrow = 621.66

This month (February):

Balance: $84,162.48
Years left: 6.833333333
P = $875.17, I = $339.24, Escrow = 621.66

One month savings:  $2.62

As we’ve talked about previously, DH is leaving his position in May at the end of the semester.  That means no more money from his salary.

Our current spending equals almost exactly our future take-home pay from my salary once we stop hyper-saving for retirement and pre-paying the mortgage (though I did get some grant money this summer, which will provide a bit of a buffer).

The worrisome part is that our [non-daycare] spending has been creeping up.  Some of that is more frequent emergencies… our stuff is getting older and starting to wear out.  Our Garmin broke, then broke some more, and then became unusable (we suspect planned obsolescence).  We needed to replace the tires on one of the cars.   The month before we had to call the plumber and replace our sink thingies because of a leak (after DH attempted a fix himself and broke things irrevocably– he’s great with electrical and mechanical stuff, not so much with plumbing).  And so on.  But we need to start planning for these more frequent emergencies if we want to stay within my income next year.

So we finally joined MINT.  I was going to have DH start it this summer when he has more free time, but when I looked into it, signing up was so easy that I just did it.  It downloaded 3 months of expenses from our credit cards and calculated a portion of our networth.  I haven’t put our main bank account in there because our credit union doesn’t play with mint.  One of my retirement accounts and one of DH’s retirement accounts isn’t in there because I would have to look up the passwords.  Ditto my single stock that kicks us big dividends every quarter.  But a good portion of our stuff is in there.

Mint is really neat because it automatically categorizes your credit card purchases.  It makes some mistakes and it doesn’t categorize everything, but that’s all fixable and it has the ability to learn.  (Also, sometimes it can’t download information and that’s annoying but generally it seems to figure things out within a few days.)

With this categorization, it provides an easy monthly budget that you can futz with.  You can also look at your spending in categories for each month.  I can see that we spent $567 on groceries and $610 on restaurants in November.  Of course, some of that restaurant stuff was reimbursed because it was on a business trip.  December shows $330 for restaurants.  January is close to $500, but that also includes a reimbursable business trip.  I think we’ll need several more months to see what a normal pattern is.

It’s also pretty easy to see what your net worth is on Mint, at least including the accounts you tell it about.  We’re doing much better than our age, we’re on track for families with my salary alone, and we’re a bit behind for families with our current combined salary (drat those years wasted in graduate school!)  Next year we stop our hyper-saving and drop to only putting 12% or so of my income towards retirement (well, probably a bit more than that as any extra money will first go towards IRAs… if there is extra money).

My first thought was to do a no-eating-out challenge.  But then I thought:  1.  What if we go into the city (not eating out would totally suck), and 2. Why?  Going a month without eating out when there’s no reason to seems like it will lead to unhappiness.  Cut back, sure, cut out entirely… that seems to be too much pain for too little gain.

So my second thought was to look at the whole rather than at just the restaurant part.  Can we keep credit card expenses under what we will need them to be next  year?  Sort of a mini dry run.

I did a little BOE and came up with $3000/month excluding childcare and the mortgage.  We spent more than that in November and in December according to mint, so it seemed like a good challenge.  Except the November and December spending included both business trips and multiple random emergencies or once a year expenses.  Which shouldn’t matter because almost every month has an emergency (or a one-time big expense)– if it didn’t our spending would probably be under 2K each month.  In fact, it looks like this month of January we’ll be coming under 3K without any effort on our parts [update: it did, just barely].  Heck, we’ll come in under 3K for the month including childcare if it takes a few days for our mother’s helpers to cash their checks [update: it didn't].  So perhaps 3K is too much for a short little month like February. [I know, I know, 3K/month even if you include rent is still a lot of money!  Part of me cringes at how much we spend now, even though we're a family of four and not two starving grad students.  A much bigger part of me never ever wants to go back.]

As I said before, with no emergencies, our regular spending should be something like 2K for food, utilities, diapers, gas, insurance, etc.  (And, indeed, if memory serves correct, the rare months without any emergencies or big spending we have spent less than 2K on the credit cards.)  Chances are there will be an emergency.  But let’s see if we can work around that and cut other spending to adjust for it.  Worst case scenario we can eat off our sizable pantry for a bit.

And that’s the challenge.  Keep non-childcare/non-mortgage spending, aka, our credit card spending, to 2K or less for the month of February.*  And this should be doable without too much sacrifice– let’s see if the little sacrifice hurts or not.  If there’s another seriously big emergency… well, hopefully we won’t have spent all our variable money on food already.  February is a short month.

What to do with the money we would usually spend but won’t… well, um, that kind of balances out November and December’s awfulness.  At the end of the summer I will take stock of where we are and put money toward bulking up the emergency fund, our 2013 IRAs, and possibly pre-paying the mortgage.

Part of me thinks this is a really stupid challenge.  A month is really not the right unit for controlling overall spending.  Spending not done in February may be moved to March.  Emergencies are generally unpredictable and either we get them or we don’t.  On top of that, we have a lot of savings from all those years we were saving 40-60% of our income.  We can always re-amortize our mortgage if we need to cut our monthly expenses in the future, and DH may someday bring in money.  By the time we run out of summer funding for me, DH will likely have brought something in.  We may never need to cut back our spending.  Why make things difficult for us now when time is at a premium?

Still, it’s February and why not?  It’s only 28 days of deprivation and I might learn something.

*Also not including DH’s allowance expenditures, or “his money.”  That is separate and already apportioned out.

Grumpeteers, Do you think this is a stupid and unnecessary challenge?  Do you think it’s ridiculous that we spend so much?

January mortgage update: How long does it take to furnish your house?

Last month (December):

Balance: $87,234.63
Years left: 7.083333
P = $863.05, I =$351.35, Escrow = 621.66

This month (January):

Balance: $85,701.59
Years left: 6.916666667
P = $869.10, I =$345.30, Escrow = 621.66

One month savings:  $2.62

Most Christmases I don’t tell DH what I want and he comes up with something thoughtful and often whimsical that he pays for out of his own allowance and not the family funds.  This Christmas I was feeling the pinch of the expectation of him leaving his job at the end of the year.  So deep down I wanted to repurpose some of his allowance for things we needed (that’s my selfish thought).  Also, there’s been something that’s been annoying me slightly for six+ years and mindful of our post on fixing minor annoyances, I figured that would make a great Christmas present from DH to me.

Several years ago we bought a house that has an open floor plan.  DH had visions of working in the kitchen while future children played in full view in the great room, or did their homework on the counter in the informal kitchen next to the sink.

For the first year we couldn’t afford furniture for the great room.  In the second year we didn’t have time to shop for any so we put our dining room set in the great room and made the dining room into a second or third playroom.  In the third year we realized that if we broke up our living room set from our old apartment back in graduate school, not only would it furnish both the living room and the great room, but I would also stop walking into the loveseat at night during nocturnal water missions.

In year one, after a few months of salary, we bought a w/d set.  We bought 6 bookcases on a close-out sale and a really cheap guest bed.  We saved up and bought a really nice Amish chair and a less nice glider (that I don’t use but the mother’s helpers love) and one of those Stokke Trip Traps and eventually a desk for the guest bedroom.  Year two we bought an Amish filing cabinet.  It is the prettiest thing in our house.  Year three we bought pictures for the walls.  Year four brought DH a new desk chair and DC got a desk.  Year five we got another two bookcases (which cost more than the original 6!) and a chest of drawers for DC2.

And now, for year six, we finally have bar stools.  Two of them.  So that the DCs can sit up at the counter while we’re in the kitchen and work on their homework.  Not that that’s ever going to happen because DC1 is training to work in the kitchen too and prefers doing homework on the living room floor, and DC2 had many years before sitting up on the bar stool is safe.  But you know, the dream is no longer an impossibility.

I think that’s it.  After 6 and a half years of living in this house, we finally have bought all the furniture that we think it needs.  Sure, DC2 may need a desk of hir own one of these days, and there’s always the possibility of buying more bookcases.  Some day my graduate school paste-board desk may finally fall apart.  And my MIL is slowly replacing our vertical blinds.  But for the most part, we’re set.

And it only took 6+ years of living here.

When folks move into a new place and go into credit card debt to furnish it… I don’t understand.  The place will get furnished eventually, and without taking on debt.  (And hey, for the couple that has to get/give Christmas presents but doesn’t know what to ask for each year… furnishing the house can provide years of ideas…)

How long did it take to furnish the place where you live?  Did you do it all at once or in drips and drabs?  Where did you get things?

December mortgage update: A thought about mortgages and itemization

Last month (November):

Balance: $88,761.62
Years left: 7.25
P = $857.03, I =$357.37, Escrow = 621.66

This month (December):

Balance: $87,234.63
Years left: 7.083333
P = $863.05, I =$351.35, Escrow = 621.66

One month savings:  $2.62

When I was reading up on amortization, I came across this comment on mymoneyblog.  Milhouse has just made the point that your effective interest rate is lower when you itemize and take the interest deduction with your mortgage.

Maury Says:
<July 18th, 2009 at 7:40 am
Milhouse,

I used to make that exact argument, but when I actually started doing my taxes, the math didn’t work out. The thing you have to keep in mind, is that you ONLY benefit from interest you pay above and beyond your standard deduction. I’m married, so my standard deduction is $11,400.

In other words, if I pay $11,000 in mortgage interest this year, I would be better off NOT claiming any of that as a deduction and taking the standard deduction.

To put that in real terms, If I had a $183K loan outstanding and was paying 6% interest (the aforementioned $11,000) I would see no tax break from the government. I would still be effectively paying 6%, not 4.5%.

This is something I had not thought about before.  This past year, I paid about 5K in interest.  Does that mean that we’re not getting a bigger break than if we hadn’t itemized?  Of course, there’s also charitable deductions and other things that only count when one itemizes, and having a mortgage also makes those worth more, because otherwise they’d be included in the standard deduction.  Is this an argument for doing more pre-payment as you get near the end of the loan as your effective interest rate changes with the loss of itemization?  (Or perhaps an argument to do more charitable donation?)

I don’t do the taxes in our household (they stress me out), so I’m not quite sure what else we itemize and how much it all adds up to.  But it’s something to think about.

Update:  Our mortgage interest may be only 6K/year, but when you add that to the state tax deduction, that puts us over the standard deduction and thus makes any additional charity donations deductible.

What do you think of the mysterious Maury’s argument?  Is it one you’d thought about before?  Is he right, and if so, is it worth it to you to itemize?

November Mortgage Update: under 100K and playing with amortization

Last month (October):

Balance: $90,282.60
Years left: 7.41666667
P = $821.47, I =$392.94, Escrow = 621.66

This month (November):

Balance: $88,761.62
Years left: 7.25
P = $857.03, I =$357.37, Escrow = 621.66

One month savings:  $2.62

First up, can I get a woohoo for being under 100K?  (Yes, I know I should have asked for it two months ago, but I had other things on my mind.)  If I had no other expenses at all (including taxes), I could totes pay this off in a year with just earned income, and have a bit leftover.  Alas for eating, utilities, childcare, etc.  Can’t quite pay it off with our secondary stock market emergency fund either, mores the shame.  Though our primary savings emergency fund plus the secondary stock emergency fund could do it… again, assuming no taxes.

With my current mad grant getting, it looks like we won’t have to re-cast (or re-amortize) the mortgage right away, and if we keep up with income generation we may never have to.  One can hope!

However, recasting is still a neat thing and I’d like to talk about it.  One of the things people say in the prepay the mortgage debate is that having a paid off mortgage is great, but there’s no way to recoup that money in a true emergency (one so bad that your HELOC is cut off) if you’ve prepaid too much.  Thus, they argue, you could lose your almost paid off home for want of being able to make monthly payments if you didn’t keep enough cash reserve.  However, that’s not true– you can regain some flexibility from pre-payment through recasting, a means of lowering your monthly payment at minimal expense.

What is recasting?

To understand recasting, you first have to realize that mortgage loans are different than, say, credit card debt.  With credit card debt, the minimum payment you have to make varies every month based on your balances.  As your balance goes down, you have to pay less each month down to a certain floor, if it goes up, you have to pay more.  Lower required monthly payments can help if there’s a financial emergency in the future.  With a mortgage, they assume you’re not going to be adding any more debt, then they take the interest rate and the number of years you said you’d be paying, and they figure out how much that works out to in order for you to pay the exact same payment each month.  With a credit card, you pay less next month when you pay extra this month.  With a mortgage, you pay the same amount next month, but you pay for fewer months total when you pay extra this month.  So if your home is a long way from being paid off, you may wish you had kept that money in order to keep making your regular payments in the event of an emergency.

What recasting does is it takes that amount you’ve prepaid into account, and it looks at how much time you have left in your loan as you had originally set it (so if you’re 8 years into a 30 year loan, it will take the remaining 22), and it recalculates how much you would have to pay each month in order to pay the same amount in the time you would have left had you not done any prepayment (so 22 years).  Unlike refinancing, your interest rate does not change.  However, if you prepaid, your monthly payment will go down and the term of your loan will increase back to what it would have been prior to repayment.

Credit cards essentially redo this calculation every month (though it’s a little more complicated because they don’t really have a set term).  Your mortgage won’t unless you ask, and generally you will have to pay a fee.  Looking on the internet, it looks like recasting fees vary from $0 to $250.  That’s a lot less than the thousands it may cost you to refinance.

So what does that mean for me?  Let’s say we decide to recast next September.  At that point we’ll have paid ~86K extra since our last refinance.  We refinanced for a 20 year term and will be 36 months (or 3 years) into it, with 204 months left.  Our current mortgage payment not including escrow is $1214.40.  If we reamortize, our new payment not including escrow will be $523.78.  That’s less than half what we were paying before.  But, of course, instead of having 5.83333 years left on the loan at that point, there will be 17 years left on the loan.  It stretches the payment back out.

Reamortizing (or recasting) is a great idea if you need temporary cash flow and have been prepaying your mortgage.  It cuts down your required payment and allows you to get over whatever hopefully temporary negative shock you’ve had so you can get back to prepayment without having to default on any of your obligations.

Have you ever recast your mortgage?

Ask the grumpies: When to buy vs. rent

rented life:

When do you know it’s the right time to buy a house instead of renting? Is it better to rent until you have a sizable downpayment? (Let’s assume the plan is to stay in area so buying to have to sell right away isn’t likely.)

There are some good generally agreed upon heuristics for when not to buy.

#1.  (As you point out in your question…) Don’t buy unless you’re planning on sticking in the same place for at least 5 years.  Housing markets bounce up and down, with a general upward slope overall, and you’re less likely to be underwater if you hold onto the house for a while (note:  this is the same heuristic as the one for investing in the stock market!).  Being underwater when you’re living in a house isn’t a big deal (and may mean your property tax drops), but it’s a huge hassle and can be very expensive when you’re trying to sell.  (If you’re willing and able to take the loss of the price of the house, this rule can be relaxed– if houses are under 100K and you have much more than that in savings and a large income, you’ll probably be ok even if you only stick around a couple years and take a loss.)

#2.  Don’t buy unless you have at least 20% down (and no other major consumer debt).  Being able to save that 20% means you have discipline, that you are used to living on less than your earnings, that you are more likely to be able to handle a regular monthly payment that you cannot miss.  It also means that you avoid expensive mortgage insurance and you aren’t doing risky double mortgages in order to avoid said insurance.  Finally, it gives you more breathing room so if you do have to move and the housing  market shrinks or you need to unload the house quickly, you’ll have that flexibility.

#3.  There are a lot of other heuristics about how much of your income etc. to spend.  That’s more about *what* to buy rather than *when* to buy, so I’ll leave a nice link to No Trust Fund on the topic here.  But obviously if there are no housing units in your area in your price range but there are rentals, renting is what you should be doing rather than violating #1 and #2.  (You will still want to think hard about putting down 20% on a million dollar house if you aren’t sure you’ll always be able to make the monthly payments.  Maybe waiting until you have 40% will provide more peace of mind.)

Ok, so that’s when not to buy… how about when to buy?  When is buying better than renting?

Luckily there’s a calculator for everything on the internet, and this calculator from the NYTimes is teh awesome.  It will tell you which is a better deal in your circumstances, renting or buying.  (Think of mortgage interest as equivalent to rent– if the mortgage interest is greater than rent for the same house, you’re losing money by owning and would be better off with that down payment in the stock market or other investments.  Well, mortgage interest and property taxes and HOA/Condo fees and upkeep.  Even with a paid off house there’s still annual expenses.)

However, there are also intangibles to home ownership.  Some people want to paint their own walls.  Some people hate having to deal with maintenance.  And so on.  These intangibles will tip people one way or the other even if the money doesn’t work out that direction.  Note that if you decide to become a permanent renter, you need to increase your retirement savings to make up for future housing costs and the lack of forced savings that is the mortgage principal.

Note that the when *not* to buy is there to guard you against really heavy negative shocks.  It’s about how to guard yourself from what can be a pretty bad risk.  The when *to* buy is less about risk and more about getting a better deal.  So if the intangibles are important to you, then you can put a price on them and even if the rent vs. buy calculator comes out against you, so long as you can safely handle the payments etc. you can still buy and be better off.  But you should still follow the when not to buy heuristics in order to stay safe– if the intangibles are important, then you need to save more money.

So readers, when did you know it was time to buy or to keep renting?  How do you make these decisions?

October Mortgage Payment: And why it is a big one

Last month (September):

Balance: $99,268.01
Years left: 8.3333333
P = $815.61, I =$398.79, Escrow = 621.66

This month (October):

Balance: $90,282.60
Years left: 7.5
P = $821.47, I =$392.94, Escrow = 621.66

One month’s savings from prepayment:  $32.31

In the end, I ignored almost everybody’s good advice and did a big mortgage pre-payment, a little more than half of what DH is not putting into the 457 plan this year that he was putting in last year (around 8K).  We will re-evaluate where we are later.

Why?  I don’t know.  There are rational reasons and irrational reasons.

Rational:

It is a safe investment and somewhat liquid.  As we’re not planning on foreclosing, we owe this money no matter what.  We can liquidate the money either by selling the house, or paying $250 to re-amortize (more on that in a future post) the mortgage, thus freeing up cash flow.  Now, the amount we free up monthly from cash flow from this pre-payment if we reamortize isn’t that big, but it’s not that small either.

Even in the short term, it makes a pretty good return.  (Of course, we may be shooting ourselves in the foot come tax time when we deduct less interest… I didn’t calculate those implications, but we’ll deal with that later, and unexpected tax bills are a good reason to have an emergency fund.)  The main problem is that we don’t see that savings in our cash flow unless we reamortize.

Putting it in the stock market has benefits, but also more risk.  The mortgage is a sure return.

Irrational:

I worry that if I let that money sit in savings too long I’ll feel richer and just spend it instead of keeping it as a buffer.  Putting it away in a CD seems just as bad as putting it in the mortgage in terms of liquidity, but the return is more than 10x lower.

It probably wouldn’t kill us to have to practice economy once DC2 is a bit older and we’re not paying through the nose for childcare (only through one nostril!) and to feed ourselves.  DH will also have more time to think about cutting our expenses, should that be necessary.  Alternatively, DH will be bringing in more income and cutting expenses will not be necessary.

But what really got me was looking at the rate of return for the year (though it’s actually lower because I ignored taxes…oh well).  The one year return on this specific prepayment is $396.14.  That’s not chump change.  And we keep getting return from this prepayment until the mortgage ends, for a total of $3650.98 over the course of the loan, assuming no more pre-payment.  (Though we still plan to do the regular monthly pre-payments until the end of the year or until we have a reason not to.)  And yes, the later money is not worth as much as the earlier money because of inflation, but what can you do?

Finally, I like writing a check with lots of 0s.  (This is also why we’re not pre-paying even more!)

Rational again:

We should still be able to end the year with a good cash buffer, especially if the two grants I’ve been doing paperwork for materialize (they *should* but I haven’t been including them in my calculations just in case).  By my calculations, even with this pre-payment we’ll have 3 months summer money, tuition for DC1, 2 months emergency fund, and several thousand leftover.  If I get the expected summer money, then we’ll be able to fund next year’s IRAs on top of that.

If we do end up moving and need to tap into more emergency funds prior to selling the house, I will sell stocks or use DH’s 457 money.  We can also stop regular prepayments and other saving and undrip dividends with enough advance notice.  We could even tap into our home equity, as a previous commenter suggested.  (Though if we do that, I’ll feel silly.)  And, of course, we could use the money set aside for private school tuition since DC1′s schooling situation would change.

Anyway, after having spent a ton of time thinking about it, even if this isn’t the optimal decision, I think it will satisfice and we’ll be ok under most circumstances.

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